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Europe By Riverboat Small Plates: Nibbles of Brussels, Antwerp and Maastricht Nibble a little here; graze a bit there. While I love the luxury and indulgence of a five-course meal, paired with wines of course, I also delight in sampling small plates of several delectable dishes. Just as there are many ways to enjoy a marvelous meal, there are also a variety of ways to experience the cities of Europe. Touring a city during a riverboat cruise is more of a small plate approach. With generally only a day or less to explore a destination, you’re not able to immerse yourself in all each city has to offer. But with a little advance reading, a good tour guide and the perfect walking shoes, we found it an enriching experience to sample the delicious flavors of our cities along the river. And we can always come back for that five-course meal on another adventure at a later date! Brussels
Our riverboat cruise began with a night in Brussels, capital of the European Union, and home to the lunch of Trappist beer and killer fries, street vendors hawking warm and crispy waffles and stores filled with handmade chocolates. No visit here is complete without a glimpse of the symbol of this great city – Manneken Pis. This small statue of a cute little cherubic boy relieving himself has become a favorite of tourists, and despite his constant stream, he has a special charm. On many days you’ll find him clothed in one of his more than 600 costumes, all stored in the City Museum at the Grand-Place. This lucky fellow can dress as Elvis, Mickey Mouse or in the costume of just about any country that has visited and bestowed upon him yet another set of tiny threads. Belgium is home to more than 300 types of beer, the national drink. A favorite accompaniment is the famous French fries, which are blanched in water first, then fried and served with a side of mayo. We stuck our heads in a few crowded chocolate shops where anxious tourists oohed and aahed over the variations of the national treat, and enjoyed window-shopping for handmade items of lace and tapestry. Our home for the night was the charming Hotel Amigo, just a short walk from the center of the city, Grand-Place, one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. The small wooden houses of humble residents were replaced by stone structures of the patrician families in the 14th century, and the square has been the site of markets, executions, bombings and once was home to Victor Hugo and Karl Marx. The Town Hall, a beautiful Gothic building, dates from the Middle Ages and is still the seat of the mayor of Brussels. For a few days every other year in August, the camera-toting and neck-craning tourists are replaced on the Grand-Place. The entire square is filled with the Flower Carpet as more than 700,000 flowers are loosely tied together and laid out to form a carpet pattern, best seen and photographed from the steps of the Town Hall.
Back in the Middle Ages, butchers would hawk their wares along these two intersecting narrow cobblestone alleys, now lined with stone houses from the 17th and 18th centuries. Located right off Grand-Place, we strolled along and instead were confronted by good-natured, apron-clad restaurant staff, eager for us to dine in their restaurants. Food is beautifully displayed outside, reminiscent of the Latin Quarter in Paris. A member of our group negotiated a few free bottles of wine from one particularly exuberant Belgian, and we were whisked inside to a cozy table where we enjoyed lively European hospitality, delicious fresh fish and more than a few bottles of wine. Antwerp Photo of Momu Fashion Museum or other fun Antwerp shot – diamond district – sorry I don’t have. It was raining! From our ship, we buttoned up our jackets against the cold wind and wound our way to the Town Hall in Grote Markt (Town Square), which is built in the Renaissance style and considered a jewel of 16th-century architecture. Once the home of Peter Paul Rubens and other famous artists, Antwerp has now achieved international status as a fashion city, evidenced by the gorgeous clothes displayed in the shop windows. More than 80 percent of the world’s production of diamonds passes through Antwerp, which has the second largest port in Europe, but not a one of them made into my suitcase.
Our visit to Antwerp was a brief one, and the cold, rainy weather was not conducive to much outdoor sightseeing. Lucky for us we were in for a sweet treat – a tour of a chocolate factory. Belgium produces 172,000 tons of chocolate a year, sold in more than 2,000 chocolate shops. Some of these lovingly handmade beauties are almost too gorgeous to eat. I’ve always appreciated the luscious taste of chocolate, but after this behind-the-scenes visit, I appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into Belgian chocolates even more. Bram Hullebroeck has been making chocolates one by one for 13 years, and demonstrated his technique by skillfully crafting delicate roses out of marzipan. Once a month he sets his sights on something bigger and manufactures a huge item completely out of chocolate to display in Burie Chocolatier. Some of these have included a phone booth, sumo wrestlers and even a car made of 1800 pounds of chocolate. That one was displayed outdoors, unfortunately next to a tree full of ants, who nibbled the car to the point of collapse. Maastricht, The Netherlands
The main form of transportation in the charming town of Maastricht seems to be bicycle, which is probably fortunate as the town boasts the highest density of bars in the Netherlands. But it’s also an easy town to explore by foot – just watch the cobblestones. There is some debate as to whether it is the oldest city in the Netherlands, but whatever its age, it’s a popular tourist destination and home to many students from all over the world. The diverse culinary scene makes this city of 120,000 the culinary capital of the country. It was here that the Maastricht Treaty was signed in 1992, creating the European Union and leading to the euro.
I’ve seen churches turned into homes and restaurants, but a bookstore? It seems that Europe has a surplus of churches and rather than destroy them, they reinvent them. The Selexyz Dominicanen bookshop is located in a 13th-century Dominican church. The café is located where the choir used to sing. I suppose a church turned bookstore is rather fitting, isn’t it? As the Bible says, “In the beginning was the Word.” For a more spiritual experience, visit the Basilica of Saint Servatius, the symbol of Maastricht built on the grave of St. Servatius, the first bishop of Maastricht, who was buried here in 384. One of my favorite activities in Maastricht was simply to stroll the streets and take in the beauty and charm of this ancient town. As I reluctantly boarded our ship, I made a vow to return. By way of riverboat, I can only hope.
Hotel Amigo Flower Carpet
Antwerp Burie Chocolatier
Maastricht St. Servaas
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